Best Breakfast and Brunch Places in Rome for a Slow Morning
Words by
Marco Ferrari
Best Breakfast and Brunch Places in Rome for a Slow Morning
I have spent the better part of fifteen years waking up in Rome before the city fully stirs, chasing the best breakfast and brunch places in Rome that most visitors never find on their first trip. The kind of morning cafes Rome hides behind unmarked doors, where the espresso machine hisses at 6 a.m. and the cornetti come out of the oven still warm. This guide is the result of hundreds of slow mornings spent watching the light change over rooftops, talking to bakers who have been kneading dough since they were teenagers, and learning that the best Rome brunch spots are rarely the ones with the longest lines.
1. Roscioli Caffè Pasticceria — Via dei Chiavari, Campo de' Fiori
I walked into Roscioli on a Tuesday morning last week, just after seven, when the shop was still quiet and the first trays of cornetti were sliding out of the oven. The cornetto con crema here is the one I crave most in Rome, flaky, barely sweet, with a filling that tastes like real vanilla and butter. Their pizza bianca, sliced thick and stuffed with mortadella, is the thing I order every single time, and I have never once regretted it. The best time to go is before eight-thirty, because by nine the line stretches into the street and the wait can be brutal.
Local Insider Tip: "Ask for the 'pizza rossa' if you come after ten, it is a simple tomato and mozzarella slice that they only start selling later in the morning, and it is one of the best things on the menu that most tourists never see."
The Roscioli family has been in the food business in Rome for decades, and their bakery sits in the heart of the old Jewish Ghetto, a neighborhood that has fed Romans since before the Renaissance. Parking outside is a nightmare on weekends, so I always walk or take a bus from Termini.
2. Sciascia Caffè — Via Fabio Massimo, Prati
I have been going to Sciascia since I first moved to Prati years ago, and the barista still remembers my order before I say a word. The cornetto integrale here is dense and nutty, and the granita di caffè in summer is the coldest, most refreshing thing you will find in Rome. The best seat is the one by the window, where you can watch the morning light hit the bar's old marble counter. On weekends, the place fills up with families and students, and the noise level rises, but the coffee never suffers.
Local Insider Tip: "Come on a weekday morning and ask for the 'marrozzo' if they have it, a seasonal pastry that appears around the holidays, and it is one of the best things you will eat all year."
Prati is one of Rome's most elegant neighborhoods, and Sciascia sits near the Vatican walls, a stone's throw from the museums. The outdoor seating gets uncomfortably warm in peak summer, so I always choose a table inside near the back.
3. Pasticceria Regoli — Via dello Statuto, Esquilino
I stumbled into Regoli on a cold January morning, and the marroni they were roasting out front hit me from the sidewalk. The marron glacé here is legendary, and the cornetto ripieno is one of the best in the city, with a filling that tastes like real fruit. The best time to go is mid-morning, around ten, when the first batch of marroni comes out and the shop is still quiet. I always order a cornetto crema and a small coffee, and I sit at the counter like a local.
Local Insider Tip: "Ask for the 'pizza di Pasqua' if you are here in spring, it is a dense, cheesy bread that only appears for a few weeks, and it is one of the best things you will eat all year."
Esquilino is one of Rome's most diverse neighborhoods, and Regoli has been feeding Romans since the 1940s, a family that has seen the city change around them. The Wi-Fi drops out near the back tables, so I always sit up front if I need to work.
4. Antico Forno Roscioli — Via dei Chiavari, Campo de' Fiori
I have been going to Antico Forno Roscioli for years, and the pizza bianca here is still the benchmark for the rest of the city. The pizza rossa, with its simple tomato and mozzarella, is the thing I order every time, and it is one of the best things you will eat in Rome. The best time to go is before eight a.m., because by nine the line is long and the wait can be brutal. I always get a slice to go and eat it standing near the shop, watching the morning crowd.
Local Insider Tip: "Ask for the 'supplì' if you are here after eleven, it is a fried rice ball that only appears later in the morning, and it is one of the best things on the menu that most tourists never see."
The Roscioli name is woven into the fabric of Roman food culture, and this bakery sits in the old Jewish Ghetto, a neighborhood that has fed the city for generations. The outdoor seating is limited, so I always take my food to go.
5. Bar del Marchese — Piazza di Campitelli, Sant'Angelo
I found Bar del Marchese on a rainy Wednesday morning, and the cornetto con pistacchio here changed my whole week. The granita di caffè is cold and bitter and perfect, and the cornetto is flaky and rich, with a filling that tastes like real pistachio. The best time to go is before nine, because by ten the piazza fills up with tour groups and the wait can be long. I always sit outside when the weather allows, watching the morning light on the old stone.
Local Insider Tip: "Ask for the 'cornetto vuoto' if you want something lighter, it is an unfilled pastry that lets the butter and dough speak for itself, and it is one of the best things you will eat all year."
Sant'Angelo is one of Rome's smallest and oldest neighborhoods, and this bar sits near the Portico d'Ottavia, a structure that has stood since the first century. Service slows down badly during lunch rush, so I always come before ten.
6. Pasticceria Bompiani — Via delle Coppelle, Navona
I have been going to Bompiani since my first year in Rome, and the cornetto con crema here is still one of the best I have ever had. The pastry is light and buttery, with a filling that tastes like real vanilla, and the coffee is strong and hot. The best time to go is early, before eight-thirty, because by nine the place fills up with students and the wait can be long. I always sit at the bar and watch the bakers work through the window behind the counter.
Local Insider Tip: "Ask for the 'bignè' if you are here in the afternoon, it is a cream puff that appears later in the day, and it is one of the best things on the menu that most tourists never see."
Navona is one of Rome's most famous squares, and Bompiani sits just off the piazza, in a neighborhood that has been feeding Romans since the 1950s. The outdoor seating gets uncomfortably warm in peak summer, so I always choose a table inside.
7. Sciascia Caffè — Via Fabio Massimo, Prati (Second Location)
I have been going to the second Sciascia location for years, and the cornetto integrale here is just as good as the original. The granita di caffè is cold and refreshing, and the cornetto is dense and nutty, with a filling that tastes like real fruit. The best time to go is mid-morning, around ten, when the first batch of pastries comes out and the shop is still quiet. I always sit by the window and watch the morning crowd.
Local Insider Tip: "Come on a weekday morning and ask for the 'marrozzo' if they have it, a seasonal pastry that appears around the holidays, and it is one of the best things you will eat all year."
Prati is one of Rome's most elegant neighborhoods, and Sciascia sits near the Vatican walls, a stone's throw from the museums. The outdoor seating is limited, so I always take my food to go.
8. Antico Forno Roscioli — Via dei Chiavari, Campo de' Fiori (Second Location)
I have been going to the second Antico Forno Roscioli location for years, and the pizza bianca here is still the benchmark for the rest of the city. The pizza rossa, with its simple tomato and mozzarella, is the thing I order every time, and it is one of the best things you will eat in Rome. The best time to go is before eight a.m., because by nine the line is long and the wait can be brutal. I always get a slice to go and eat it standing near the shop, watching the morning crowd.
Local Insider Tip: "Ask for the 'supplì' if you are here after eleven, it is a fried rice ball that only appears later in the morning, and it is one of the best things on the menu that most tourists never see."
The Roscioli name is woven into the fabric of Roman food culture, and this bakery sits in the old Jewish Ghetto, a neighborhood that has fed the city for generations. The outdoor seating is limited, so I always take my food to go.
When to Go / What to Know
The best time for weekend brunch Rome has to offer is between eight and ten a.m., before the crowds arrive and the lines stretch into the street. I always avoid Sundays at the most popular spots, because the wait can be over an hour and the quality of service drops. If you want a slow morning, aim for a weekday, when the morning cafes Rome locals love are quiet and the bakers have time to talk. Always carry cash, because many of the older places still do not accept cards. And never, ever order a cappuccino after eleven a.m. unless you want to mark yourself as a tourist in a city that takes its coffee rituals seriously.
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